Towering limestone guardians rise majestically behind the houses of Jerzu, which gracefully climb the mountain slopes. Lush, well-tended vineyards stretch the gaze towards the blue horizon of the sea, painting a scene that seems crafted by nature itself. This is Jerzu, a centuries-old village renowned for its prized treasures, like the famous Cannonau wine, and its breathtaking landscapes that captivate every visitor.
Here, ancient food and wine traditions blend seamlessly with culture and outdoor activities. As you wander through the narrow streets, filled with the scent of fermenting must and the fragrant Mediterranean scrub, you’ll feel transported to a bygone era. Jerzu appears untouched by the passage of time, wrapped in a soothing silence broken only by the rustling wind and birdsong—a place where the soul can find peace and refreshment.
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An Ancient Village with a Wine-Infused Heart
The towering limestone formations of Jerzu are not only majestic natural guardians but also keepers of ancient secrets, including some of the area’s earliest human settlements, such as Monte Corongiu. These sites show that human presence in Jerzu dates back to ancient times, even to the Nuragic era. However, one particular aspect makes Jerzu’s history especially intriguing: some scholars believe that before the Pisan invasions, the village was much closer to the coast. But why are they convinced of this?
The first written records of Jerzu date back to the 12th century, specifically in 1130, when it appears in a notarial deed. In this document, Arzocu de Lacon donated his assets, including vineyards, land, and even servants, located in the Jerzu area, to the Church of Santa Maria of Lotzorai. What makes this act particularly interesting is that Jerzu is mentioned alongside other coastal villages like Girasole, Tortolì, and Bari Sardo, as part of the so-called Trigonia of Barbaria. These centres were once directly by the crystalline waters of Sardinia’s eastern coast, suggesting that Jerzu may have originally been a maritime settlement.
However, the devastating Pisan invasions during the Middle Ages forced the inhabitants to seek refuge inland, settling at the foot of the Tacchi d’Ogliastra. Further evidence of this relocation can be found in 14th-century documents, where the village is referred to as “Jerzu de montibus,” a name that seems to contrast the new mountain settlement with a previous one on the plains, possibly in the current Pelau Mannu area.
Beyond documenting the village’s name and location, the 12th-century notarial act also confirms an essential aspect of local culture: its winemaking heritage. Even at that time, Jerzu was known for its vine cultivation, a tradition that local farmers keep alive to this day. The village produces a significant portion of all Cannonau wine in Sardinia, a prestigious red wine deeply intertwined with the island’s culture and landscape.
Sardinia’s winemaking tradition, however, has much deeper roots. According to archaeologists, vine cultivation dates back to the Middle Bronze Age. A stone press found in the Nuragic village of Monte Zara, near Monastir, suggests that the ancient Sardinians were producing and processing grapes 3,000 years ago. Sardinian wine amphoras have been found among the remains of a shipwreck near Malta, proving that Sardinian wine was traded with other Mediterranean civilizations as early as the 9th century BC.
Another significant record of Jerzu’s winemaking heritage comes from 1839, when the village is described in a geographical, historical, statistical, and commercial dictionary as being renowned for producing wines of the highest quality, particularly Cannonau and Vernaccia. These wines were not only consumed locally but also traded with Genoese merchants through a well-structured network of trade routes known as the Wine Routes. These routes allowed the export of Cannonau via key paths, such as the Nuoro route and the Sarrabus route. In the latter, the wine was loaded at the port of Colostrai in the municipality of Muravera and shipped to Genoa, one of the leading commercial centres of the time.
In the years that followed, Jerzu fought for an alternative communication route, and in 1893, the railway finally connected the village to Cagliari, marking an economic turning point. However, at the end of the 19th century, the vineyards of Sardinia, including those of Jerzu, were struck by the devastating phylloxera pest, threatening the production of Cannonau. Only through grafting onto resistant American rootstock was Jerzu’s Cannonau able to survive.
The true revival of winemaking in Jerzu occurred in the 1950s, thanks to the initiative of Josto Miglior, a prominent local physician. He founded the Jerzu Cooperative Winery, known as “Antichi Poderi di Jerzu,” transforming Cannonau production into an organized industry and ensuring the continuity of an ancient tradition that still represents the heart and soul of this extraordinary village.
Today, Jerzu is known as the “City of Wine,” a title that perfectly reflects the village’s character and its long-standing winemaking tradition. The Jerzu Cooperative Winery, with hundreds of members, continues to grow and conquer new markets with its outstanding wines, further strengthening the reputation of Cannonau and other high-quality wines produced in the area.
There’s no particular time to visit Jerzu, as it is always fascinating, but August is particularly special. During this period, the village comes alive with two main events: the Wine Festival and “Calici di Stelle.” The Wine Festival, a traditional event, features parades of carts once used to plough the vineyards and people in traditional costumes from Jerzu and other Sardinian villages. The streets fill with tourists and locals celebrating the harvest and sharing the ancient winemaking traditions.
Also in August, Jerzu hosts the Festival of the Tacchi, a contemporary theatre festival curated by Cada Die Teatro, bringing art and culture to the surrounding mountains. On the 10th of August, the night of San Lorenzo, Calici di Stelle takes place, when the village’s historic cellars open their doors to visitors. During this event, you can taste the local fine wine, accompanied by some of the most beloved gastronomic specialties, such as culurgionis and coccoi prenas, transforming the night of falling stars into a unique experience of flavours and conviviality.
What to Do and See in Jerzu
The grandeur and majesty of the limestone Tacchi of Porcu ‘e Ludu and Monte Troiscu frame the village of Jerzu, a true treasure trove of art, nature, gastronomy, and archaeology. As you wander through its narrow streets, you immediately sense the village’s peaceful atmosphere and the warm hospitality of its inhabitants. Breathtaking views unfold before your eyes, offering a panorama that stretches from the rolling hills and mountains to the crystal-clear waters of Sardinia’s eastern coast.
The Tacchi towering above provide the perfect backdrop for adventurous hikes and are a haven for climbing enthusiasts. But Jerzu is also a crossroads of history and archaeology, with sites that tell the ancient story of the village, such as its Nuragic ruins.
Some murals adorn the village’s streets, while the local winery houses works by the Ogliastra-born artist Maria Lai. Let’s take a closer look at what Jerzu has to offer, depending on your interests.
What to Do in Jerzu if You Love Nature
For nature lovers, Jerzu offers a wide range of experiences. The Tacchi d’Ogliastra, the towering limestone formations that dominate the landscape, are home to a rich biodiversity, boasting numerous endemic species.
Among the plant species, you can find wild orchids, the Corsican rockrose, and Montpellier rockrose. These plants thrive in the Mediterranean scrubland, creating a unique ecosystem that is precious and well worth exploring with care.
The local fauna is equally impressive, including rare species of birds and animals. Falcons, buzzards, and even golden eagles gracefully soar above the Tacchi, adding to the area’s natural splendour.
For hiking enthusiasts, a walk among the Tacchi of Jerzu is an unforgettable experience. The trails, winding through the Tacchi and forests, offer breathtaking views of the surrounding landscape. Beyond the scenic beauty, these hikes allow you to fully immerse yourself in the tranquillity of nature. Some of the most captivating routes include Monte Corongiu and the paths that traverse the Tacchi of Porcu ‘e Ludu and Troiscu.
What to Do in Jerzu if You Love Sports
Jerzu is an incredible destination for outdoor sports enthusiasts, offering a wide variety of activities ranging from climbing and hiking to mountain biking.
Climbing in Jerzu
With numerous equipped sectors, Jerzu is a paradise for those who love sport climbing. Climbing walls such as Il Castello, Palazzo d’Inverno, and Isola del Tesoro offer over 200 routes, suitable for both beginners and seasoned climbers. Il Castello was one of the first sport climbing areas in the region, offering technical routes on vertical walls. Each crag has its own unique characteristics: from the porous limestone of Il Castello to the clean holds of Palazzo d’Inverno, the shade in various sectors makes climbing enjoyable even during the hottest seasons.
- Il Castello
The first climbing crag on the Tacchi, with over 70 routes, many of which face west. This sector is perfect for summer, with shade available until 1:00 PM. It’s ideal for experienced climbers, with technical routes on vertical walls. - Palazzo d’Inverno
With 93 routes, this is one of the most popular sectors due to its verticality and clean holds. It offers shade from 1:30 PM and is perfect for windy days thanks to the wall’s natural protection. - Isola del Tesoro
With 63 routes, this crag is perfect for winter climbing. The rock quality is excellent, although some routes have rusty bolts. It’s best to avoid it on windy days. - Jerzu 40
A recent sector, developed with 40-metre-long routes. Here, you’ll find cracks, roofs, and chimneys that add an extra challenge to the climbing experience. - Guardiani d’Ogliastra and Calice di Stelle
Other key sectors with 21 and 22 sport climbing routes, respectively, on vertical walls. Both are best avoided on days with strong winds from the maestrale.
For those who love the thrill of scaling heights and the beauty of rugged landscapes, Jerzu offers a climbing experience that combines technical challenge with stunning scenery.
Mountain Biking in Jerzu
Jerzu and its surroundings offer exciting trails for mountain biking enthusiasts. With routes winding through the Tacchi d’Ogliastra, you can immerse yourself in untouched nature while tackling a variety of terrains. The Valle dei Vini Trail is perfect for a scenic ride through the vineyards, while the Jerzu-Rio Pelau Round Trip is more challenging, with technical descents along the Pelau River. Trails like the Jerzu-Tertenia Round Trip provide a tougher challenge for experienced riders, with steep climbs and breathtaking landscapes.
- Valle dei Vini MTB Trail
This trail takes you through the famous Valle dei Vini, an area rich in vineyards and typical Sardinian landscapes. It’s perfect for those who want to combine nature and culture, with a smooth descent that passes through Jerzu’s wine-growing region. Along the ride, you’ll enjoy spectacular views of the Tacchi d’Ogliastra and immerse yourself in one of the area’s most characteristic landscapes.Difficulty: Moderate
Distance: 20 km
Elevation: +500 metres - Jerzu – Rio Pelau Round Trip
This route will take you to discover the Rio Pelau, a stream that flows through one of the most picturesque areas of Jerzu. The trail starts with a challenging descent along the stream and through the surrounding hills. Once you reach the river, the route becomes more technical, with sections of single track requiring good bike handling skills—perfect for cyclists who love a challenge.Difficulty: Challenging
Distance: 18 km
Elevation: +600 metres - Sa Canna and Genna Figu Round Trip
One of Jerzu’s most scenic routes, this trail covers various types of terrain, from asphalt to dirt roads and technical paths. It takes you through Sa Canna and reaches Genna Figu, offering spectacular views of both the mountains and surrounding valleys. This trail is ideal for those looking for a diverse ride with plenty of points of interest.Difficulty: Moderate
Distance: 25 km
Elevation: +700 metres - Jerzu – Tertenia Round Trip
This round trip is perfect for those seeking a longer day in the saddle. The route starts in Jerzu, winds through the village, and heads towards Tertenia, a nearby town known for its pristine nature and beaches. The trail takes you through oak forests, cultivated fields, and panoramic hills, perfect for those looking for a mix of adventure and relaxation.Difficulty: Difficult
Distance: 35 km
Elevation: +900 metres
Hiking in Jerzu
For those who love walking, Jerzu offers hikes that allow you to explore the region at a slower pace, immersing yourself in its natural and archaeological landscapes. The Monte Corongiu Trail is a scenic hike to the summit of the highest “tacco” in the area, with archaeological remains such as the Punic necropolis and Nuragic sites. The Gessitu Loop Trail takes you through forests and leads to the Gessitu Nuraghe, while the hike to Genna Figu presents a challenge for those seeking more difficult routes with extraordinary views.
Click to discover the trails of the Tacchi of Jerzu and Ulassai.
What to do and see in Jerzu if You Love Art
In the heart of Jerzu’s historic centre, along its ancient streets, you can admire recently created murals that depict the rural traditions of the village. These paintings aren’t placed randomly; they invite visitors to explore the hidden corners and lesser-known views of the town, now brought to life with vibrant colours. Each mural tells a piece of Jerzu’s cultural story, transforming the walls of historic houses into living canvases.
At the Antichi Poderi Winery, within the Cinquesse space, you can also visit a permanent exhibition, Divenire Pietra, dedicated to Maria Lai, the renowned artist from Ulassai.
What to Do in Jerzu if You Love Food and Wine
As we’ve mentioned, Jerzu’s rich winemaking tradition has earned it the title of “City of Wine.” The village is renowned worldwide for its production of Cannonau. If you’re a wine enthusiast, a must-visit is the Antichi Poderi Winery of Jerzu and the other local wineries.
The historic winery, founded by Josto Miglior, offers not only tastings of prestigious local wines but also a journey through the region’s winemaking history, blending tradition with innovation. Another notable winery is Sa Pruna, which also offers guided tastings paired with platters of local products. We also recommend visiting a small vineyard in the Jerzu countryside, which produces excellent wine and is featured at dinners in our home restaurant, Fudora, run by the Mulas brothers.
Beyond wine, Jerzu boasts a production of high-quality extra virgin olive oil. The olive groves stretching across the surrounding hills produce a rich, fruity oil, often used in local cuisine to enhance the flavours of traditional dishes. Our family was one of the first to own an olive mill in Jerzu. Today, we have an organic-certified olive grove and are members of the Tertenia olive mill. At our home restaurant, you can sample our oils, accompanied by our homemade sourdough bread.
For food lovers, Jerzu also offers the chance to savour typical Ogliastra dishes like culurgiones—ravioli filled with potatoes, pecorino, and mint—made according to ancient recipes passed down through generations. One of Ogliastra’s first pasta factories, Muceli e Lotto, was opened in Jerzu, where you can find local delicacies. And if you want to bring a piece of Sardinia home with you, don’t miss our traditional Ogliastra cooking classes. Between culurgionis, coccoi prenas, and a glass of Cannonau, we’ll guide you through the authentic culinary traditions of Ogliastra.
What to Do in Jerzu if You Love Archaeology
Jerzu, with its rich archaeological heritage spanning various historical periods, is a fascinating destination for those who enjoy exploring the past. Below is an overview of the main archaeological sites to visit, each with its unique history and features.
Nuraghe Is Paganus
Among the most striking nuraghi in Jerzu is Is Paganus, one of the few nuraghi still almost entirely intact. This site stands out for its intricate network of internal passages, showcasing the ingenuity of the ancient inhabitants. It offers an extraordinary opportunity to observe Nuragic defensive architecture up close, immersing visitors in the daily life of communities that lived here thousands of years ago.
Nuraghe Sa Domu ‘e s’Orcu
Located in Su Concali at 422 metres above sea level, Nuraghe Sa Domu ‘e s’Orcu overlooks the Pardu Valley. Although part of the structure has collapsed, the site remains captivating with its access corridor and remnants of the staircase that once led to the top. Its panoramic position offers spectacular views of the valley, highlighting the strategic importance the nuraghe held for protecting local communities during the Nuragic age.
Nuraghe Gessitu
Built from limestone and unique in its design, Nuraghe Gessitu lacks a central chamber, making it more akin to an observation tower. The well-preserved staircase leads to a terrace with breathtaking views of the surrounding landscape. This nuraghe, with its almost “alien” appearance, evokes the image of an ancient temple nestled among the rocks, creating an atmosphere reminiscent of sacred places from distant times.
Nuraghe Gedili
Situated at 910 metres on Pizzo di Gedili, Nuraghe Gedili is one of the most enigmatic and fascinating archaeological sites in Jerzu. This bilobed nuraghe consists of a main tower (Tower A) and a secondary tower (Tower B), surrounded by the remains of an ancient Nuragic village. Despite some collapse, the nuraghe remains well-preserved and continues to intrigue scholars due to its symbolic significance and architectural complexity.
One of the most intriguing features of Gedili is the five small windows arranged in a radial pattern in Tower B. According to research by young scholar Tonino Mura, these openings may have had not only practical but also symbolic and religious purposes, possibly linked to astronomical events such as solstices and equinoxes. This theory falls within the realm of archaeoastronomy, a discipline that studies the relationship between ancient structures and celestial movements.
The most well-known phenomenon observed at Nuraghe Gedili is the so-called Light of the Bull, a play of light that occurs during the winter solstice. As the sun rises, a ray of light passes through one of the windows and crosses the room, striking a niche or wall opposite. The beam creates a stylised image, which some researchers, including Mura and Leonardo Melis, believe represents a bull’s head—a symbol of great significance in ancient cultures, associated with sun worship and fertility. Although this phenomenon has yet to be fully validated, it offers a fascinating hypothesis about how the Nuragic people conceived their temples and religion.
In addition to its solar connections, Gedili may also have stellar alignments. The windows seem to be oriented towards the setting of stars like Arcturus and the Southern Cross, celestial events that could have had ritual or symbolic significance for the ancient inhabitants. Mura and Melis suggest these alignments reflect ancient astronomical knowledge, although further studies are needed to confirm these theories.
What makes Nuraghe Gedili particularly captivating is this intricate connection between architecture and the sky, between earth and the divine. Scholars agree that many nuraghi, including Gedili, were not just defensive structures but also sacred temples, built to observe and celebrate nature’s cycles and the movements of the stars. Although many of the theories surrounding Nuraghe Gedili are still under study, the site continues to attract those fascinated by the deep relationship between ancient civilizations and the cosmos.
Nuraghe Barsu
Located on a rocky spur along the Pardu River near the Gairo border, Nuraghe Barsu is a complex nuraghe with four towers surrounded by a defensive wall. Although part of the structure has collapsed due to river erosion, the nuraghe retains a wild charm, perfect for adventurers who enjoy combining archaeology with pristine nature.
Punic and Roman Necropolis Remains on Monte Corongiu
At 1,009 metres high, Monte Corongiu hosts one of the most interesting necropolises in Jerzu’s territory. On its slopes lie the remains of a Punic and Roman necropolis, once rich with treasures but unfortunately plundered by tomb raiders. Today, you can still see remnants of circular Nuragic huts and find fragments of obsidian, a stone used for tool-making. Additionally, on the southern side of the mountain, there is a well-preserved Punic “tholos” hut, which is still used by shepherds as shelter today.
If you are passionate about archaeology, Jerzu offers a unique blend of ancient sites, each with its own story and mystery waiting to be explored.
Religious Tourism in Jerzu
Jerzu, in addition to being a treasure trove of natural and archaeological beauty, offers a rich religious heritage that attracts many visitors seeking spirituality, culture, and tradition. The churches in the village, along with the religious events that shape local life, represent significant stops for those looking to explore the more sacred side of the Jerzese community.
The Church of San Sebastiano: Tradition and Renewal
Located in Jerzu’s oldest district, known as Cuccureddu (the “highest point”), the Church of San Sebastiano is deeply rooted in the history and hearts of the villagers, despite not being dedicated to the official patron, Sant’Erasmo. The first mention of this church dates back to 1722, though its origins may be even older, possibly from the 16th century. While no grand documentation exists about its construction, San Sebastiano has always been cherished by the people of Jerzu for its symbolism and commanding position overlooking the village.
In 1958, the original church was demolished due to damage from severe storms, leading to the loss of valuable artworks, including a 17th-century marble altar and a wooden statue of the saint. A simpler, more modern building was erected in its place, with an orange facade adorned with stones, a single nave, and a bell tower with a small bell. Despite its reconstruction, the devotion to San Sebastiano remains strong, and the church continues to be the centre of popular celebrations, including festivities in honour of Sant’Antonio Abate.
The Parish of Sant’Erasmo: The Spiritual Heart of Jerzu
Located in the centre of the village, the Parish of Sant’Erasmo is Jerzu’s most important church, dedicated to its patron saint. Known historically as Sant’Elmo, its origins date back at least to the 17th century, although earlier records were lost. The church was built near the old cemetery of San Vincenzo, which was gradually abandoned to make way for a funerary chapel dedicated to Sant’Erasmo.
Over the centuries, the church underwent several modifications. Between the 18th and 19th centuries, side chapels were added, giving the building a more solid and dignified appearance. However, the parish needed continuous repairs and was closed for three years at the end of the 19th century due to its deteriorating state. In 1928, restoration work began, leading to the church’s present form, with a facade featuring a detailed rose window, a new bell tower, and a monumental pipe organ inaugurated in 1995.
The Rural Church of Sant’Antonio da Padova: Devotion in Nature
A short distance from the village, along the SP13 road, lies the Rural Church of Sant’Antonio da Padova, nestled among the hills surrounding Jerzu. This small rural church is the heart of one of the village’s most important festivals, the Feast of Sant’Antonio da Padova, celebrated on the Sunday following June 13. During the festivities, many Jerzu inhabitants temporarily relocate near the church, staying in the so-called Is Posadas, small enclosed spaces where they wait for the celebrations to begin.
Built in the 18th century, the church has retained a simple and traditional appearance, with a single nave and an entrance porch. In 1960, after a sacrilegious theft, the entrance was secured with an iron gate. Today, the procession in honour of Sant’Antonio begins at the Church of San Sebastiano, with the statue of the saint carried to the countryside, in a rite that unites faith and community.
The Church of Nostra Signora delle Grazie in Pelau: An Oasis of Peace
Located in the Pelau hamlet, just outside Jerzu, the Church of Nostra Signora delle Grazie is another important religious site for the local community. Built in the 18th century, this rural church has undergone several restorations, the most recent completed in 1996, which restored the building’s splendour. Every year, on the first Sunday of May, the Feast of Our Lady of Grace is celebrated, drawing many devotees.
The statue of the Madonna is carried in a procession from the Parish of Sant’Erasmo to the rural church, greeted by 21 rifle salutes. After three days of prayers and celebrations, the statue is returned to the village, with the festivities concluding in a solemn evening mass. This site, set amidst the tranquillity of the Ogliastra countryside, offers visitors a peaceful retreat for reflection and devotion.
For those interested in religious tourism, Jerzu provides a journey through faith and tradition, offering a deep connection to the local community’s spiritual roots and its rich historical heritage.
Events and Traditional Festivals: The Beating Heart of Sardinian Traditions
Jerzu, renowned for its wine and culture, is a village that proudly celebrates its roots with a series of events, particularly during the summer months.
- I Fuochi Sacri dei Nostri Padri (April): Fires are lit near Nuragic sites, recreating an ancient system of communication used by ancestors.
- Madonna delle Grazie (May): A celebration held at the rural church in Pelau Mannu.
- Sant’Antonio (June 13): A procession where the statue is carried from the Church of San Sebastiano to the rural chapel.
- San Giacomo and Sant’Anna (July): Local celebrations dedicated to these saints.
- Sagra del Vino (August): Part of the Jerzu Wine Festival, featuring folkloric parades and tastings of Cannonau wine and local delicacies like culurgiones.
- Calici di Stelle (August 10): Wine tastings held in the historic village cellars, accompanied by traditional music and local products.
- Festival dei Tacchi (August): A nationally recognised theatre festival, set amidst the dramatic scenery of the Tacchi d’Ogliastra.
Where to Stay in Jerzu: Our Artist’s Home
Our Artist’s Home in Jerzu is a unique place where art, tradition, and local culture come together to offer you an authentic experience in the heart of Ogliastra. Nestled in the picturesque Pelau Valley, surrounded by vineyards and rolling hills, our holiday home is more than just a place to stay. It’s a space designed to inspire, where guests can immerse themselves in the beauty of Sardinia through artistic and culinary experiences.
Visitors have the chance to participate in creative workshops and taste authentic local cuisine, prepared with fresh, locally sourced ingredients. Artist’s Home Jerzu is a refuge of tranquillity and creativity, where every detail is crafted to make guests feel part of an ancient story—one of art, nature, and authenticity.
Curiosities About Jerzu
The disused railway station of Jerzu, located in the territory of Ulassai, was once the terminal of the Gairo-Jerzu railway line, which operated from 1893 to 1956. After its closure, the area was transformed in 2006 into the Stazione dell’Arte Museum, dedicated to the renowned artist Maria Lai. The museum houses the largest public collection of her works, with over 150 pieces, including terracotta sculptures, looms, ceramics, and sewn books. The site represents a unique connection between the region’s industrial past and contemporary art, deeply rooted in the local landscape.
Conclusion
Jerzu encapsulates the authentic essence of Ogliastra, combining history, nature, and tradition. From its towering rock formations, the Tacchi, offering unique opportunities for climbing and hiking, to its folkloric celebrations, this village is an ideal destination for those seeking an immersive experience in Sardinian culture. With its renowned wine, breathtaking views, and ancient traditions, Jerzu offers visitors a truly authentic experience, inviting them to discover a corner of Sardinia that remains genuine and untouched.
